Black Radish – ancient vegetable of Russian cuisine
Having had a pretty long experience as a “regular eater” in a few countries, I thought about the difference between the tastes of the same products and the attitude for them and for food in general, in different places. In traditional Russia, where I come from, food is respected, treated carefully, and good food is almost worshipped. Even though the consumption is not so intensely stimulated and pushed on TV as it is in the UK – where the choice and variety of ready and half-ready meals is enormous and tempting, and the feel of living primarily for your stomach haunts you all the time.
The disparity between the taste of the vegetables, fruits and herbs that I buy in West Europe, and the flavours that I recall from my childhood in a semi-provincial place, in the Far Northeast of USSR and Russia, where the wild taiga, streamy northern rivers and hills covered in high trees, grasses and berries were right on the outskirts of the town, – is too obvious to my taste buds. These “taste memories” made me to become aware of the organoleptic quality of those products (which is not much to do with the market understanding of the “quality”).
The vegetable known as “Black Spanish radish” in Britain, is actally a traditional, ancient Russian food. Its history mentioned in the ancient recepies takes back to the 1st century CE. Its name red’ka has no direct translation into English, it translates as “radish” but it’s not really correct. Russian has different names for the different vegetables of this plant family. Horseradish is Khren, red radish is Rediss, black radish is Red’ka. Unfortunatelly it’s not found on the tables as often as it used to be, but it is still respected, available everywhere and very cheap in Russia (for instance, in Germany this vegetable costs surprisingly much for a regular table vegetable, and appears only on the shelves of organic products).
I find this product pretty unique, one of those that I would list in my virtual book of the “Culinary Purist”. Savoury, hearty, and very spicy, this is the way it should be – not watery and bland as I find it here. The real black radish by its taste and spiciness is somewhere between horseradish and red radish. But again – Russian red radish is spicier, more flavoursome, crispier.
Black radish and its juice are pretty special for their medicinal qualities. For many centuries black radish has been for the poor peasant families a treatment from plenty of diseases, an immunity booster, an anti-bacterial and anti-cough potion.
The way to prepare black radish:
If you slice it finely – make sure you sprinkle first a bit of salt on it and let it produce its juice, and then poor it with whatever you prefer: unrefined sunflower oil, the same+mayonnaise, the same+table vinegar – depends on your taste. Then I always sprinkle it a bit with black pepper from the mill.
In the internet you can find a lot of recipies for black radish in various salads, but I prefer to prepare it with minimum ingredients. There are also almost forgotten ancient recipies of cold soups with black radish, mainly based on Kvas – the wonderful Russian drink made of hard bits of black or rye bread, yeast, fermentation starter (zakvaska) and sugar.